Pattern Cutting and Making Up

Janet Ward, Martin Shoben

• Éditeur: Routledge
• Année: 2012
• ISBN:
  9781136076213
• Édition: 1
• Sujet: Commerce
• Sous-sujet: Industrie de l'hôtellerie, du voyage et du tourisme

Major changes have occurred in the last few years in the methods of cutting and manufacturing outerwear. Light clothing companies are now manufacturing these heavy garments because of the development of fusible interlinings and new manufacturing techniques which have resulted in the deskilling of traditional tailoring methods. Outerwear has consquently assumed much greater importance in light clothing courses and this book - the first of its kind - has been written to reflect these industrial changes. It offers a course of practical and theoretical study which is related to specific garment types and fabrics. An essential manual for students at every level. Suitable for use in CGLI, BTEC and degree courses, this uniquely comprehensive work is certain to become a standard textbook on its subject.

CHAPTER ONE

Measurement taking and basic block construction

Block patterns are used in the industry to provide pattern cutters with basic shapes from which to develop many different garment designs. The basic block will vary from company to company depending on such factors as

1 Intended age group of market, e.g. teenage or mature

2 Type of product, e.g. children's wear, maternity wear

3 Price range and fabric category

4 Idiosyncracies of the particular company.

The dimensions of the basic blocks are based on the following information

2 Main size chart (in cm)

1 Essential body measurements such as bust, waist and hips, which are contained in the company size chart

2 Some scale measurements which are difficult to measure directly from the body. See page 205

3 Tolerances, which are allowances for movement.

This chapter, which will provide you with all the information needed to construct an industrial block pattern has been broken down into the following two stages

1 Taking the body measurements

2 A system of applying them to produce various basic blocks.

Although block construction is not the main purpose of this book, it is advisable to construct a block carefully by following all the instructions provided. You will then be able to follow all the other exercises contained in this book.

Size chart and measurement taking

The size chart in Figure 2 consists of the essential body measurements required to construct an industrial block pattern. It covers a range of four sizes, and is based on average measurements which are calculated by measuring large numbers of people. From the results of these surveys a statistical average emerges (for further details see Grading for the Fashion Industry, Taylor and Shoben. The following notes and diagrams are to help you to understand how the measurements are obtained and to enable you to measure a dress stand or model girl in order to produce a block pattern.

Sequence of measurement taking (See Figure 3)

1 Bust girth

Place the tape around the fullest part of the bust. The tape must be horizontal at the back. This measurement must not be taken tightly.

2 Waist girth

Tie a cord around the waist and let it settle at the narrowest part. Take this measurement firmly.

3 High hip girth

The landmark is the iliac crest, which is positioned approximately10 cm below ...