The Little Dictionary of Fashion

A Guide to Dress Sense for Every Woman

Christian Dior

• Éditeur: V&A Publishing
• Année: 2011
• ISBN:
  9781851777419
• Édition: 2
• Sujet: Design
• Sous-sujet: Fashion Design

First published in 1954, Christian Dior reveals the secrets of style in his indispensable guide that covers everything from what to wear to a wedding and how to tie a scarf to how to walk with grace. From accent to zest, running through darts, hats, knitwear and silk - there is much to discover here for students, fans of vintage fashion, and anyone with an interest in style and timeless elegance.

Camouflage

Since the days of Adam and Eve women have been using a thousand and one tricks of dressing to make the best of themselves.

Camouflage is very, very important. Most of the art of couture is the art of camouflage because perfection is rare in this world and it is the couturier’s job to make you perfect.

In the hands of an expert such a lot can be done with clever cutting and a little padding. Coats and suits, especially, can be ‘built’ on a person.

Checks

I love checks. They can be fancy and simple; elegant and easy; young and always right.

Right from the earliest days of weaving, checks have been popular and they are always in fashion.

And there are so many styles of checks to choose that there will be one to suit every age and figure.

The young and gay will have check gingham frocks … the petite woman will choose tiny checks … the older woman will have a broken check in a soft silk or woollen material … for the country there are beautiful, classic check tweeds.

For summer evenings fine cotton in pastel coloured checks is very dainty … and for holiday time checks are very gay for accessories – gloves, scarves, etc.

Chiffon

One of the loveliest of all materials. And one of the most difficult to use. In French ‘chiffon’ means ‘rag’, and I must say that a chiffon dress that is not well made easily looks like a rag! Chiffon needs to be used in a perfectly feminine fashion; and draped with what we call in France ‘doigts de fée’ – fairy fingers. If you are not a very experienced dressmaker my advice to you would be to avoid using chiffon for frocks; of course, you can easily use it for a little scarf.

Blouses, too, are very charming in chiffon – especially for the older woman – and they are lovely in soft neutral shades of grey, beige and oyster.

Chiffon is essentially a feminine material; if you have a frock or a suit that presents rather a hard look you can always use chiffon to soften the effect.

Coats

This is the garment which has kept the original function of clothes – to keep you warm.

In the Stone Age women loved to keep warm with furs – and today the best materials for coats are those nearest to furs; this means wool and velvet.

Silk coats are summer coats; one wears them for adornment rather than for practicality. Personally, I don’t like seeing women in town without a coat.

Coats can be either fitted or loose, whichever is your personal choice. But above everything they must be practical. Practical in colour and practical in style.

. . . Dior’s fitted coats are ideal for the petite woman. This one, in dark grey, has an unusual tie fastening.

Cocktail Frocks and Hats

Cocktail dresses are especially elaborate and dressy afternoon frocks. But avoid the mistake of dressing for a cocktail party as you would for a dinner party. This is wrong.

I think the most convenient type of cocktail frock is a little strapless or very décolleté design with a little bolero on top. Then with the bolero you look well dressed for the street; and without the bolero you will be right for formal occasions.

…Cocktail frocks. A matching jacket-bolero tops a décolleté frock in Dior’s favourite black.

For cocktail dresses you can choose fairly rich materials – taffetas, satins, chiffons, or wool (wool is excellent) and here again you will choose a dark colour, preferably black if it suits you. But leave very rich embroideries or heavy brocades for evening gowns.

Cocktail hats are the fanciest hats of all. You can have them in any materials; they may be embroidered, covered in flowers, feathers or ribbons. You can have a big hat or a small one (but choose a small one if you are going to be in a small space!)

You can have any colour – you can let your imagination and femininity take over!

. . . Cocktail hats. Can be large or small, fancy or simple and any colour you like. Black is Dior’s choice for this tiny oval hat worn well forward.

Collars

The work of a collar is to frame your face. And big or small, high or low, its proportions must always be very well studied.

It is extraordinary how many different kinds of collars have been invented out of such a small piece of material.

The famous ‘little white collar’ is, of course, very nice and youthful; but don’t use it too much because it may sometimes look cheap. And never wear a white collar twice – it must be spotless.

A casually knotted scarf collar for a plain blouse.

A scarf collar trims a white satin blouse.

Detachable ribbed collar to wear on a plain jersey.

A neat tie collar for a plain white blouse.

Black piping edges the collar of a suit.

‘Little boy’ collar made of tiny white feathers.

Pay great attention to the shape and the fit of your collar; an ill-fitting collar will throw the whole of your frock out of balance.

Usually little collars are young-looking and bigger collars, especially draped ones, are more dignified. If you want to look young you will choose a crisp material, too – like piqué. If you want to look sweet you will select a fine piece of lace (perhaps you will have made it yourself).

If you have a long neck you may have an upstanding ‘highwayman’s’ collar or a mandarin collar. If you have a short neck you will choose a long, narrow collar.

Colours

Colours are wonderful and glamorising – but they must be used with care.

Even the prettiest colour, if you wear it every day, will lose its effect. Colour needs change. We wouldn’t appreciate blue skies if they were always blue, it is the clouds, the ever-changing scene, that makes the sky so beautiful.

Nothing about Nature is ever static … the countryside changes daily; the sky changes hourly; and the sea is never the same for a minute.

Colour may be used in touches if you wish to change the look of your clothes. An emerald scarf … one brilliant red rose … a sunshine yellow stole … royal blue gloves.

But if you have only a small wardrobe rest...