NOTES
INTRODUCTION
Epigraph. Miguel Gual Camarena, Estudio HistĂłrico-GeogrĂĄfico sobre la Acequia Real del JĂșcar (Valencia: Instituto de GeografĂa de la InstituciĂłn Alfonso el MagnĂĄnimo, 1979), 9.
1 Emilia Pardo BazĂĄn, La cocina española antigua (Madrid: Sociedad AnĂłnima Renacimiento, 1913), 317; Doctor Thebussen (Mariano Pardo de Figueroa), quoted in Pilar Bueno and Raimundo Ortega, âDe la fonda nueva a la nueva cocina. La evoluciĂłn del gusto culinario en España durante los siglos XIX y XX,â Revista de Libros 19â20 (1998): 3. See also Lara Anderson, Cooking Up the Nation: Spanish Culinary Texts and Culinary Nationalization in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century (Woodbridge, UK: Tamesis, 2013).
2 Gregorio Marañon, âEnsayo apologĂ©tico sobre la cocina española,â in El alma de España (Madrid: Herederos de D. Manuel Herrera Oria, 1951), 188.
3 Pardo BazĂĄn, La cocina española antigua, 317â19.
4 Olivia Blair, âJamie Oliverâs Paella Recipe Blasted by Spaniards over Inclusion of Chorizo,â The Independent, Oct. 5, 2016; Sam Jones, âJamie Oliverâs Paella Brings Fractured Spain Together ⊠against Him,â Guardian, Oct. 4, 2016; Vicent Marco, âLa âpaellaâ de Jamie Oliver, el chef mĂĄs famoso de Inglaterra,â Vicent Marco, Oct. 4, 2016, www.vicentmarco.com/2016/10/04/la-paella-de-jamie-oliver-el-chef-mas-famoso-de-inglaterra/; Ana Vega âBiscayenneâ, âHow Celebrity Chefs Destroy Classic Spanish Dishes,â El PaĂs, March 18, 2016.
5 Llimona (llim0na), â@jamieoliver Remove the chorizo. We donât negotiate with terrorists. First warning,â Oct. 4, 2016, tweet.
6 Phobophile, âGood. Now let me tell you about my version of fish&chips. It combines beef and ravioli,â Oct. 4, 2016, 6:02 a.m., tweet; Antonio Villa-real (bajoelbillete), âMy version of fish and chips combines aubergines with duck,â Oct. 4, 2016, 5:59 a.m., tweet. Paella recipes published by Pardo BazĂĄn and other food writers from the first decades of the twentieth century include not only chorizo but blood sausage, steak, and other ingredients certain to horrify contemporary Valencians. Pardo BazĂĄn, La cocina española antigua, 317â19; Dionisio PĂ©rez (Post-Thebussem), La cocina clĂĄsica española: Excelencias, amenidades, historia, recetarios (Huesca: La Val de Onsera, 1936), 43.
7 Llorenç Alapont (LlorAlapont), âPaella is not just a terrible version of rice with things. Paella is culture and tradition,â Oct. 4, 2016, 3:41 p.m., tweet.
8 âRegulation 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on Quality Schemes for Agricultural Products and Foodstuffs,â Official Journal of the European Union L 343 (2012), Sec. 1.
9 Pliny the Elder, Historia Naturalis, Book III, Chapter 4, trans. John Bostock (London: Taylor and Francis, 1855), available at www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus:text:1999.02.0137:book=3:chapter=4.
10 Strabo, Geography, Book III, Chapter 4, Section 6, trans. Horace Leonard Jones (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1923), available at http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Strabo/3D*.html.
11 Carles Sanchis Ibor, Regadiu i Canvi Ambiental a LâAlbufera de ValĂšncia (Valencia: Universitat de Valencia, 2001).
12 The concept of Valenciaâs ânational dualityâ was introduced by Joan Fuster in his highly influential work of Valencian nationalism, Nosaltres, els Valencians (Barcelona: Ediciones 62, 1962).
13 Salvador Almenar, âLa meitat dels valencians creu que el catalĂ I el valenciĂ sĂłn llengĂŒes diferents,â Ara.cat, May 16, 2014.
14 On early modern irrigation in Spain, see Guy Lemeunier, âHidrĂĄulica AgrĂcola en la España MediterrĂĄnea, S. XVIâXVIII: La FormaciĂłn de los RegadĂos ClĂĄsicos,â in El Agua en la Historia de España, ed. Carlos Barciela LĂłpez and JoaquĂn Melgarejo Moreno (Alicante: Universidad de Alicante, 2000), 47â110. On irrigation and agriculture in Valencia and the Ribera Baixa in particular, see J. M. Soria and E. Vicente, âEstudio de los aportes hĂdricos al parque natural de la Albufera de Valencia,â Limnetica 21 (2002): 105â15.
15 Antonio JosĂ© de Cavanilles, Observaciones sobre la historia natural, geografĂa, agricultura, poblaciĂłn y frutos del Reyno de Valencia (Madrid: Imprenta Real, 1795), xi.
16 Richard Twiss, Travels through Portugal and Spain in 1772â1773 (London: Robinson, 1775), 199, 206.
17 Joseph Townsend, A Journey through Spain in the Years 1786 and 1787, Vol. III (London: C. Dilly, 1791), 268.
18 ACA, Consell dâAragĂł, Secretria de ValĂšncia, llig. 657, f. 82 and ACA, Consell dâAragĂł, Secretria de ValĂšncia, llig. 791, f. 46/1, both quoted in Xavier Quartiella and Xavier Roman, Pescadors i LlauradorsâActivitats Economiques De Les Classes Populars a lâAlbufera (s. XVII) (Valencia: Ajuntament de Catarroja, 1989), 206, 218.
19 Lemeunier, âHidrĂĄulica AgrĂcola,â 85â86; James Simpson, Spanish Agriculture: The Long Siesta, 1765â1965 (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1995), 85; Ricardo SanmartĂn Arce, La Albufera y sus Hombres (Madrid: Akal/Universitaria, 1982), 30â31; Sanchis Ibor, Regadiu i Canvi Ambiental a LâAlbufera de ValĂšncia.
20 Francisco de Paula MartĂ, study published by the Sociedad EconĂłmica Matritense, 1818, Patronato Nacional de Turismo, 1929, 151.
21 Francisco de P. Momblanch y Gonzalbez, Historia de la Albufera de Valencia (Valencia: Ayuntamiento de Valencia, 1960), 150.
22 âOrdenanzas para el desagĂŒe del Real Lago de la Albufera de Valencia y limpia y monda de sus carreras,â July 18, 1862 (Valencia: Imprenta de JosĂ© Maria Ayoldi); Francisco Collado Rosigue, âWater Management at the Albufera in Valencia,â PowerPoint presentation, 2007, 4â5, 22; J. M. Soria, âPast, Present and Future of La Albufera of Valencia Natural Park,â Limnetica 25 (2006): 137.
23 PlĂĄcido Virgili Sorribes (Inginiero de Montes), Aprovechamiento PiscĂcola de la Albufera de Valencia y Marjales Lindantes (Madrid: DirecciĂłn General de Montes, Caza, y Pesca Fluvial, 1956), 24.
24 General overviews of the Albuferaâs long history of recreational and productive use by Valencians include SanmartĂn Arce, La Albufera y sus Hombres; Momblanch y Gonzalbez, Historia de la Albufera de Valencia; Ignacio Docavo Alberti, La Albufera de Valencia: Sus Peces y sus Aves (Valencia: DiputaciĂłn Provincial de Valencia, 1979).
25 Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac (New York: Oxford University Press, 1949). On the engagement of Leopold and other wildlife managers in agricultural landscapes, see Albert G. Way, Conserving Southern Longleaf : Herbert Stoddard and the Rise of Ecological Land Management (Athens: University of Georgia Press, 2011), 144.
26 Two global studies of this phenomenon are Mark Dowie, Conservation Refugees: The Hundred-Year Conflict between Conservation and Native Peoples (Cambridge: MIT Press, 2011); Roderick P. Neumann, Imposing Wilderness: Struggles over Livelihood and Nature Preservation in Africa (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998).
27 Ian Tyrrell, âAmericaâs National Parks: The Transnational Creation of National Space in the Progressive Era,â Journal of American Studies 46, no. 1 (Feb. 2012): 13, 10â11. With regard to national parks in particular, not all European countries prioritized cultural landscapes. Sweden, for instance, established largely human-free wilderness areas, while scientific interests drove the declaration of the Swiss National Park and the elimination of traditional economic exploitation within it. Patrick Kupper, âScience and the National Parks: A Transatlantic Perspective on the Interwar Years,â Environmental History 14, no. 1 (2009): 66.
28 Aldo Leopold, For the Health of the Land: Previously Unpublished Essays And Other Writings (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2012); Julianne Lutz Newton, Aldo Leopoldâs Odyssey: Rediscovering the Author of A Sand County Almanac (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2006); Paul S. Sutter, Driven Wild: How the Fight against Automobiles Launched the Modern Wilderness Movement (Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2009), 89â98.
29 The phrase âValencia: Garden of Spainâ first appeared in tourism marketing in 1928, during the dictatorship of Miguel Primo de Rivera, but reflected a widely held concept dating back at least a century. An extensive literature underscores the centrality of cultural landscapes in European concepts of nature and nature conservation. See, for example, Thomas M. Lekan, Imagining the Nation in Nature: Landscape Preservation and German Identity, 1885â1945 (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2004), 15; James Sievert, The Origins of Nature Conservation in Italy (Bern: Peter Lang, 2000), 21, 41; Raymond H. Dominick III, The Environmental Movement in Germany: Prophets and Pioneers, 1871â1971 (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1992), 27; William J. Sutherland, âA Blueprint for the Countryside,â Ibis 146, no. s2 (Nov. 2004): 231; Jens BrĂŒggemann, âNational Parks and Protected Area Management in Costa Rica and Germany: A Comparative Analysis,â in Social Change and Conservation: Environmental Politics and Impacts of National Parks and Protected Areas, ed. Krishna B. Ghimire and Michael P. Pimbert, 2nd ed., 71â96 (London: Earthscan, 2009), 79; Roberta Cevasco, âEnvironmental Heritage of a Past Cultural Landscape: Alder Woods in the Upper Aveto Valley of the Northwestern Apennines,â in Nature and History in Modern Italy, ed. Marco Armiero and Marcus Hall (Athens: Ohio University Press, 2010), 127; Dario Gaggio, The Shaping of Tuscany: Landscape and Society between Tradition and Modernity (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2016); Luigi Puccioni, âNature Preservation and Protection in Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Italy, 1880â1950,â in Nature and History in Modern Italy, ed. Marco Armiero and Marcus Hall (Athens: Ohio University Press, 2010), 253â54.
30 Dowie, Conservation Refugees, 134â40, offers examples of pastoralism, swidden agriculture, cyc...