CHAPTER 1
GIVE THEM WHAT THEY WANT
David Hall McConnell was a hard worker from the start. The second of six children, as a young boy he rolled up his sleeves and helped run the family farm in Southwest Oswego, New York, a rural locale on the north central border of the state where Lake Ontario separates the United States from Canada. It is a place noted for its severe winters, with average snowfalls of 141 inches per year.
His parents, James and Isabella Hall McConnell, had emigrated from County Cavan, Ireland, in 1856. Like so many others, they came to the United States hoping to find a better life for their family. The couple already had one son, William, who was born in 1855. David arrived three years later on July 18, 1858. In succession, Joseph, Margaret Ann, George, and Hattie followed.
David McConnell was a sturdy youth who didnât allow the heavy fieldwork to distract him from his education. He became a diligent student at the âlittle red school,â as the townâs public school was known. Afterward, he continued his studies at the Oswego Normal School, a training college for teachers.
Together, he felt the outdoor work and solid schooling had made him rugged. When he set out as a young man to seek his fortune, McConnell said that his hardy upbringing gave him a âpositive advantageâ over others with less life experience.
An intelligent lad, McConnell liked school. As he progressed through his grades, he even taught some classes as well. He had long imagined a career for himself as a mathematics instructor and the experience was considered good preparation.
SELLING BOOKS
But McConnell was a boy willing to try new things. One summer, during a brief recess from school, he stepped outside his familiar routine and took a temporary job as a book salesman with the New York office of Union Publishing House. Little did he know that this brief encounter with business would ultimately lure him away from academics and change his life forever.
It was through this experience, which required him to peddle goods door-to-door, that the onetime farm boy discovered he had an aptitude for sellingâand was intrigued by the world of commerce. He immediately took to the challenges of it, and from the start wanted to continually find better ways to approach and engage potential customers.
After his first brief taste of this business, McConnell gladly returned to work with the publisher the following year. Once again, he found the experience to be rewarding. It didnât take much convincing after that for McConnell to throw himself into the venture full force. In 1878, he said goodbye to his studies and to his family in Oswego and set out to work full-time as a book canvasser.
McConnellâs ascent was rapid and he soon became the firmâs leading salesperson. He then moved into the publisherâs Chicago headquarters where his successes continued to mount.
Within two years, he was promoted from canvasser to general traveling agent, a role that would take McConnell on trips to almost every state east of the Rocky Mountains. In this management position, he recruited and trained other agents. In the process, he honed his own selling skills and learned how to motivate others. For a time, he led the companyâs southern district headquartered in Atlanta.
The experiences with his customers and colleagues, he wrote, âgave me good insight into human nature.â
So accomplished was McConnell at the book-selling trade that he swiftly proceeded to buy out the publishing firm from his boss. Soon after, he moved the operation to New York City.
THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS
When he moved back East, McConnell wasnât alone. He had met his wife, Lucy Hays, while working in Chicago. The two were married in a quiet ceremony at the home of Lucyâs sister on March 31, 1885. Lucy also helped McConnell with the business. In the ensuing years, the couple had three children: David Hall Jr., Edna, and Dorys.
It was now 1886 and McConnell had been selling books for some eight years. His enchantment with the book business was diminishing, and he was also anxious to expand his operation into new areas. But he wasnât quite sure how.
He and his employees steadily peddled the books and, as always, he continuously sought new and different ways to engage their customers. A chemist friend had mixed up some perfume samples, which McConnell handed out to housewives in order to win them over and then draw their attention to his books.
But it didnât take long for the savvy salesman to recognize that the small fragrance vials were delighting the women far more than his books were. It was a eureka moment for McConnell. By chance, he had stumbled on the new business opportunity he had been searching forâperfume!
Perfume may have caught McConnellâs attention by happenstance, but from then on his venture was guided by strategic planning. Before stepping into the fragrance business, he first fully researched its potential. After evaluating the competition posed by other door-to-door enterprises, McConnell concluded that there was a high likelihood for success not only in perfumes, but also in expanding into various grooming items.
âThe starting of the perfume business was the result of the most careful and thorough investigation, guided by the experience of several yearsâ successful operation in the book businessâthat is, in selling goods direct to the consumer or purchaser,â McConnell said. âIn investigating this matter, nearly every line of business was gone over, and it seemed to me then, as it has since been proved, that the perfume business in its different branches afforded the very best possible opportunity to build up a permanent and well-established trade.â
While the company was always based in New York City, glowing descriptions of California and air scented from fields of wildflowers peppered McConnellâs conversations with his close friend and former boss, Charles L. Snyder, from whom he had acquired the book business. McConnell credits Snyder, who was living in San Francisco at the time, with helping to come up with the name for this new venture.
With five single note fragrancesâlily of the valley, violet, heliotrope, white rose, and hyacinthâMcConnell launched the California Perfume Company in 1886 at 126 Chambers Street in Manhattan. (As a reminder of its origins, large black and white photographs of each of the flowers hang on the lobby walls of the companyâs U.S. headquarters at 1251 Avenue of the Americas in Manhattan and at its global offices a few blocks north.) The first product was named the Little Dot Perfume Set and it contained a selection of the five scents.
From the start, McConnell was committed to creating quality products and immediately issued a money-back guarantee to aid in the marketing. That pledge still appears on every brochure distributed by the company around the world. His instinct was to focus on using the best ingredients on the formulas, while not spending much on packaging. He later learned that packaging was important, too, and the company soon began to upgrade the appearance of its products. Through his catalogs, McConnell made sure that customers knew he used only the finest ingredients. His scents, he stressed, were derived from natural essences and were as good as any French perfume.
For several years, he maintained the book business while, at the same time, expanding the perfume operation. But with beauty showing robust promise, McConnell finally abandoned the book business forever in 1892. Despite his early accomplishments with book selling, McConnell expressed no regrets about the way his life changed course.
âThe book business was not congenial to me, although I was, in every sense, successful in it,â he later said. âBut there were many things that were not pleasant.â
Like many who happen into the glamorous world of the beauty business, McConnell developed a taste for its aspirational nature and whimsy and set out to learn how to mix product formulas himself. He took earnestly to the task in his homemade lab for several years.
It was a trial-and-error process at the start. âI did much experimental work in making these odors, and the selling price of the first batch of perfumes I made did not cover one-half the actual cost of the goods,â he observed.
MARKETING WOMAN-TO-WOMAN
McConnell made a pragmatic decision in shifting his operation from books to beauty. Still lauded today as a progressive thinker, McConnell saw business advantages in having women sell to other women for their ability to add a personal and understanding touch to the exchange. It was during his days on the road as a bookseller that he encountered women who needed a way to make money for themselves. Wrote a nephew in 1962, âAs he was canvassing, he was moved by the way women were struggling âto makes ends meet.â â
It was therefore no surprise that McConnell tapped one of his best booksellers, Mrs. Persis Foster Eames Albee of Winchester, New Hampshire (P. F. E. Albee) as the first official salesperson for his newly minted California Perfume Company. Her title was âgeneral agent.â Born in 1836, the mother of twoâEllery and Ellenâshe was 50 years old when she started her new job.
Through the California Perfume Company, McConnell provided earning opportunities to women at a time when other employment options were few. Even while peddling his books and only contemplating the creation of a new business, he had always imagined women would be part of the plan.
Albee and her husband, Ellery Albee, an attorney who served as New Hampshire state senator from the Ninth District from 1869 to 1871, operated a variety store together from their home in Winchester. Because the store also possessed the townâs public phone, many people had an additional reason to stop by. Not wanting to miss an opportunity to gain attention for the California Perfume Companyâs wares, Mrs. Albee prepared an attractive display of the samples in her store.
The Albeesâ home, a two-story colonial structure located near the center of town on the banks of a narrow river, was close to the railroad station. âIt was white . . . all landscaped . . . it was a beautiful house,â remembered a childhood neighbor.
For many families, making ends meet can be challenging. The Albees were no different. Town records show times when property bills werenât met and warnings were issued to the family that ownership of their home on Depot Street (now 9 Elm Street) was in jeopardy.
Through her work with the California Perfume Company, Albee, a Sunday school teacher, was able to help with her familyâs income. To sell her wares, she traveled by horse and buggy and by train to distribute the California Perfume Company product line. After several months, McConnell promoted her to âdepot manager.â In her new, elevated role, she began recruiting other women to sell.
Albeeâs business grew and she earned a reputable name for herself as having âunfailing integrity.â It was said that Albee âwas as good an employer as she was her own businesswoman. She helped those who helped the business prosper,â according to an article in New Hampshireâs The Banner newspaper.
McConnell was very public in recognizing the contributions of Albee. Noting that Albee had been the companyâs first general agent and had also secured several good workers, âIt is only befitting,â wrote McConnell, âthat we give her the honorary title of âMother of the California Perfume Company,â for the system that we now use for distributing our goods is the system that was put in practical operation by Mrs. Albee.â
With Albeeâs help, the California Perfume Companyâs growth was brisk from the start. The companyâs first home on 126 Chambers Street had blossomed from a 20- by 25-square foot space containing shipping, manufacturing, and office functions to occupy the buildingâs full six floors by 1894. The original staff included one stenographer; Albee as the sole general agent; McConnell as the self-proclaimed manufacturing chemist, shipping clerk, and office boy; and his wife Lucy.
Then, as now, the companyâs sales were closely aligned with the rise and fall of the size of the sales force. So Albee began to bring more sales agents into the fold. As she did, sales volume climbed. To keep new and old customers coming back, the California Perfume Company ratcheted up research and development efforts to maintain a flow of enticing new products. Before long, the company outgrew its Manhattan workspace.
MOVING TO SUFFERN
McConnell had relocated his family from Brooklyn to the Rockland County Village of Suffern, a 2.1-square-mile enclave where the railroad came early (circa 1848) luring settlers. Situated in a valley surrounded by the lush rolling hilltops of the Ramapo Mountains, it was also a popular retreat for summer visitors escaping the heat of New York City. In its 1889 pamphlet âSuburban Homes on the Picturesque Erie,â the New York and Erie Railroad described Suffern as a âchoice picture of natural beauty.â The train ride to Manhattan took about an hour.
Two years after he moved his family in, McConnell relocated the research and development and manufacturing operations of the California Perfume Company to Suffern in 1895. The headquarters stayed in Manhattan (where it remains today, albeit it at a different location).
McConnell had a heavy hand in the development of Suffern. In addition to being a leading businessman in the area, he was a founder of the Suffern Presbyterian Church and the Suffern National Bank and Trust Company. He also served as superintendent of schools and treasurer of the Rockland County Republican Committee. During World War I, he was chairman of the Rockland County Selective Service Board.
With a progressive eye toward his community and business, in 1896 McConnell was among a group of Suffern leaders who passed out fliers and lobbied for the villageâs incorporation. The measure was approved by a resident vote of 206 to 19. The empowered status gave Suffern more autonomy from Ramapo Township and hastened the start of vast capital improvement projects such as street lighting and road building. Better services, of course, improved business opportunities. And while Suffern enjoyed rail service, in the 1890s, it still had no paved streets or sidewalks, no street lights or water system, and no formal police or fire protection.
The first California Perfume Company facility in Suffern was a 1,600-square-foot temporary space. This was quickly replaced by a three-story wooden structure in 1897 at Fair and Division streets, strategically located on the Erie train line. The building provided 3,000 square feet of working space and was outfitted with a full laboratory.
By then, the company was growing so rapidly, McConnell was personally being stretched, dividing his time among product manufacturing, distribution, and his sales team. After creating the product line himself for 10 years, in 1896 he hired a perfumerâAdolph Goettingâto lead that area. Goetting was a naturalized German immigrant with 25 years experience in the fragrance industry.
GROWING THE BUSINESS
Meanwhile, the representative ranks were escalating. By 1898, there were 5,000 agents. Two years later, that number climbed to 6,100. Altogether, the representative force produced sales of $200,000 annually.
After setting out with simple perfumes, the product portfolio blossomed to include shampoo cream, witch hazel cream, almond cream balm, and household items such as toothbrushes, tooth powder, and cleansers. By 1906, the collection had some 117 items, 600 when individual sizes and varieties were taken into account. Fragrances remained a mainstay with new scents and ancillary items being added regularly. As early as 1914, a scent for children was introduced. The first was the Little Folks Set that combined fragrances in packages with pretty illustrations.
Cosmetics were not part of the starting lineup. But nearly 20 years after its launch, customer...