Theatrical Makeup

Basic Application Techniques

Sharon Sobel

• Publisher: Routledge
• Year: 2015
• ISBN:
  9781317630364
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Media & Performing Arts
• Subtopic: Theatre

Theatrical Makeup clearly and concisely explains the basics of theatrical makeup techniques to allow stage actors to put their best face forward!

Readers will gain understanding of the physiology of the human face and, using cream based makeup, as well as commercial cosmetics, learn how to contour it to suit the character with the use of highlight and shadow. Hundreds of full color images and step-by-step instructions illustrate how to visually manipulate bone structure and apparent age, apply simple facial hair and wounds, and create glamorous and natural stage makeup. Also covered are the tools readers will need to apply their own makeup, along with critical health and hygiene tips.

This book is suitable for beginner Theatrical Makeup courses and for stage actors of all levels.

1
Tools and Materials

Two types of makeup are used in theatre productions: traditional theatrical makeup and cosmetics.

Traditional theatrical makeup, which can be bought at such places as a costume rental shop or novelty store, comes in several forms, the two most popular being cream (soft and moist) and pancake (dry). Cream makeup is ready to apply directly from the container. Pancake makeup requires water to activate it before it can be used. When using a cream foundation, cream highlight and shadow are used for contouring. Either a cream or powder color is used for cheek blush. When using a pancake foundation, either cream highlight and shadow, or powder shadow alone can be used for contouring. Traditional theatrical makeup continues to be used on larger stages where heavier coverage and stronger definition are required. Theatrical cream highlight and shadow are also necessary when applying age makeup or changing your features to any great degree. Brands of theatrical makeup include Ben Nye, Graftobian, Kryolan, and Mehron.

Cosmetics, worn by many women on a daily basis, are also used frequently in theatre, especially in smaller venues. But even on large Broadway stages and in many opera companies, some performers are wearing cosmetics. Liquid and cream foundation, and shadow or bronzing powder for contouring, are readily available at cosmetics counters in department stores (Clinique, Estee Lauder, MAC, etc.) and in the cosmetic sections of health and beauty stores (Almay, Cover Girl, Maybelline, etc.)

A VARIETY OF THEATRICAL FOUNDATIONS, HIGHLIGHTS, AND SHADOWS

A VARIETY OF LIQUID BASES AND CONTOURING POWDERS

If you have chosen theatrical makeup, you can either purchase a complete kit, which certain theatrical makeup manufacturers market to students and actors, or the following individual items:

• Foundation (discussed in Chapter 3)
• Cream highlight (discussed in Chapter 4)
• Cream shadow (discussed in Chapter 4)
• Cream or powder cheek color (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Lip color (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Lip-liner pencil (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Eyeliner pencil in brown or black, depending on the darkness of your hair or wig
• Setting powder
• Flat brushes for application of cream contouring. A 7/16-inch or ½-inch wide brush, which some brands refer to as size 12, is the ideal size for contouring bone structure
• Velour or velvet powder puff
• Stipple sponge

BASIC THEATRICAL MAKEUP NEEDS

APPLICATION TOOLS

• You may also purchase a palette for mixing base and contouring colors. The palette can be any one of a variety of things: a professional makeup palette, an artist's painting palette, a white ceramic tile, or even a white or clear lid from a plastic container. Be sure it is clean and sanitized.

If you have chosen cosmetics, you will need to purchase the following individual items:

• Liquid foundation (discussed in Chapter 3)
• Primer (can be useful in very small, close venues)
• Concealer (discussed in Chapter 3)
• Setting powder (discussed in Chapter 4)
• Shadow or bronzing powder (discussed in Chapter 4)

PALETTES FOR MIXING

BASIC COSMETIC NEEDS

• Neutral eye-shadow in dark and light shades (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Blush (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Lip color (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Lip-liner pencil (discussed in Chapter 5)
• Eyeliner pencil in brown or black, depending on the darkness of your hair or wig

For all types of makeup, you will need to purchase:

• Mascara, if you are a woman, or a man playing a woman, or a man performing in a very large venue
• Latex-free application sponges, which can be either wedge-shaped, or round and flat
• Large, rounded brushes for application of powder shadow and blush

SUPPLIES AVAILABLE AT A HEALTH AND BEAUTY RETAILER

• Smaller sized flat brushes for eyes, lips, etc. (¼-inch and ⅜-inch are useful sizes)
• Liner pencil sharpener
• Headband or hair clips
• Makeup remover in either liquid, cream, or towelette form, or baby towelettes (make sure makeup remover is alcohol-free so you don't dry out your skin)
• Facial cleanser
• Moisturizer
• Toner, if that is part of your regular cleansing regimen
• A carrying case with multiple drawers and compartments: some are made specifically for makeup and can be found in cosmetic departments, but a fishing tackle box is also effective

ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS FOR MAKEUP REMOVAL

CASES FOR STORING AND TRANSPORTING YOUR MAKEUP

TACKLE AND ART BOXES CAN ALSO BE USED

NOTE: NEVER STORE YOUR MAKEUP IN ANY LOCATION THAT IS NOT TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED; FREEZING AND HIGH TEMPERATURES WILL DAMAGE IT.

2
Safety and Hygiene

Test Makeup Before You Use It

In order for makeup to be sold legally, it must be tested for safety; however, certain people may have an allergic reaction. If you are using makeup for the first time, test it to make sure you are not allergic to it before applying it to your whole face. First apply it on the inside of your wrist; allow some time to see if there is a reaction. Next try it on your jawline and wait for a reaction. Finally, try it near your eyes, nose and mouth.

In some cases, red makeup may cause an allergic reaction if applied near the eyes. If you are prone to allergic reactions, do not apply makeup with red pigment near your eyes.

If you have any concerns about using theatrical or street makeup, first check with a licensed dermatologist.

Avoiding Infection

In the makeup room, safety and hygiene are of utmost importance. Actors often apply their makeup in close quarters, in a rush, and various infections can be spread. Pay attention to the following rules.

Do Not Share Your Makeup or Applicati...