I am getting a bit bored of reading about whether the Mini is still authentically British. The Mini is built in Oxford, the Rolls-Royce is put together at Goodwood; both are owned by BMW and, if you look carefully, it shows. But, of course, both want to say they are British. Maybe they are, but they certainly have a strong German accent. Bentley, assembled at Crewe and owned by VW, isnât that British either. Itâs full of the same parts as VWâs prestige car, the Phaeton. Is Jaguar Land Rover, owned by Tata, still British? The point about all these cars is that they try, and they sort of seem, to be British. They certainly emphasize heritage.
What about the Peugeot 107 and CitroÍn C1? Are they French? Is the Toyota Aygo Japanese? They are all more or less the same car underneath, and they are all built in the Czech Republic ⌠in the same factory.
Some true blue British cars made by Aston Martin â a company, incidentally, owned by a Kuwaiti consortium and run by a German â are built in Austria. Nobody talks about that. Slovakia makes more cars per head than any other country in the world, but nobody talks about that either.
In an era in which transnational companies are making everything everywhere, at a point in time when nobody really knows where most things come from, we, as consumers, still love to think that the things we treasure come from somewhere â a particular place. We like to feel that provenance is a guarantor of quality; that it confirms our preconceptions about German technology, or Spanish passion, or Italian style, or French flair, or perhaps more especially food from local ingredients â and often it does. So perhaps, because almost everything we touch comes from all over the globe, paradoxically this increases our yearning for authenticity and provenance.
Just behind where I live in Englandâs Thames Valley is a farm which, in a very short season, grows asparagus. As soon as the season begins, we rush over and pick as much as we can and we have lots of friends over to eat it. Then we casually say, âDo you like the asparagus? We picked it yesterday in the field just over there. Yes, itâs real Oxfordshire asparagus.â Of course, they all love it. Itâs the authenticity that gets them. Itâs local and itâs fresh and we picked it with our own hands. And everyone feels good about it, because it didnât burn up carbon to get here and itâs sustainable and environmentally friendly and all the other good things you can think of.
So, where we can, we continually emphasize provenance. Our supermarkets and specialist food shops are full of products whose provenance is its main differentiator: fruit, cheese, beef, lamb, pork, poultry, soap, cosmetics, everything â âGrown inâŚâ, or made using ingredients âgrown inâŚâ.
Then there are the farmersâ markets, bringing fruit, vegetables, fish and meat straight from the countryside to the urban customer. Of course, you expect these in small country towns or even in some cities, but they are absolutely everywhere, every week. Thereâs a farmersâ market every Sunday just off smart, chic, bustling, trendy Marylebone High Street in central London, just a few blocks away from Selfridges department store ⌠and itâs genuine. Then thereâs another, Borough Market, practically opposite the Tower of London. Borough Market is so famous â not just for its fresh food, but also for its cafĂŠs, pop-up restaurants and the rest of the foodie mix â that itâs now a significant tourist attraction.
And itâs not just London. And itâs not just Britain. And itâs not just Europe, or the United States (thereâs one in Santa Monica, right in the middle of the Los Angeles conurbation). In fact, one of the biggest and most seductive farmersâ markets I have ever been to was in Fremantle in Western Australia.
Why are they so successful? Because they are authentic, or they seem to be. There doesnât appear to be any kind of barrier between us, the consumers, and the people who bring us the stuff. They grew it, or they caught it in the sea, or they reared it and butchered it, and now they stand behind a stall selling it. We know where it comes from, or we think we do. Authenticity means provenance. It not only tastes good but it gives us a feeling of well-being. We are doing the right thing, both for ourselves and for the planet.
Of course, authenticity has always been part of the mix that we consumers have wanted, but not like now. Something is changing and some of us just canât get enough of it. Itâs the inevitable paradox: the more the world goes global, the more we prize the local and the authentic ⌠or what we assume to be the authentic. This is a trend thatâs been spotted, mostly by small, entrepreneurial companies. The bigger companies, for the most part, have been caught napping.
Kelloggâs suddenly looks so old-fashionedâŚ
Just take cereals, for instance. I have in front of me, as I write, two packs of breakfast cereals, Kelloggâs and Dorset Cereals. The Kelloggâs packaging is a classic traditional example of fast moving consumer goods (FMCG) branding â noisy, brash, full of exaggerated claims, repetitive, almost clownish, but quite charming and of course very familiar to us. We all grew up with that kind of thing. âKelloggâs â a source of vitamin D â helps to build strong bonesâ repeated here and there a few times, together with a lot of similar stuff scattered all over the multicoloured packaging. Of course, the copy is a bit tendentious and misleading. It often is. Thatâs part of the tradition.1
Next to it is Dorset Cereals â âhonest, tasty and realâ â in a sober dark brown carton. Dorset Cereals is also a classic example of packaging, but of the new wave. It is simple, almost austere, and understated. The copy is deliberately self-deprecating and itâs quite witty, and the packaging silently screams authenticity and provenance.
Everywhere you look, in the food and drink world especially, you find it. Real beer is also making a comeback. Of course, the carbonated, sourish fluid thatâs produced all over the world still dominates the market, but, in the United States, Samuel Adams of Boston and hundreds of other small craft breweries are making a big impact. In London, Shoreditch Blonde and Camden Hellâs Lager combine authenticity with provenance, and they both come from the heart of inner London where all the little design studios working on digital videogames live. Even potato chips, traditionally a snack loaded with every kind of synthetic and addictive nastiness, seem to have been influenced by the trend towards authenticity. Itâs all about being pure, using unadulterated ingredients and no e-numbers. Burts Potato Chips of Devon (âNaturally Deliciousâ) apparently âsupplies the best Paris restaurantsâ. I quote from their product description: âdown here in deepest Devon ⌠[we] make fantastic chips using only the finest and freshest natural ingredientsâ.
Authentic brands come from everywhere, but they have to be based around provenance. LâOccitane isnât just from France; it comes from a specific region â Provence. The LâOccitane website claims that the companyâs cosmetics and creams are made from locally sourced ingredients in the Manosque factory, which the founder rescued from ruins in the 1970s. Natural ingredients, traditional Provençal manufacturing methods and a passionate business owner, who claims heâs still getting his hands dirty making soaps and gathering rosemary: thatâs what LâOccitane says itâs about. And there are LâOccitane shops everywhere â in France, of course, but all over Europe, in the United States, in Turkey, all based around marketing products from a region in France that many customers will never have heard of, but nevertheless love the feeling of authenticity they get.
Itâs happening in clothes, too. Pringle of Scotland and all those âMade in Italyâ brands have been with us for years. Remarkably, perhaps, Prada of Italy seems to be going one stage further. Harking back to an earlier tradition, Prada proposes to produce designs âutilizing the traditional craftsmanship, materials and manufacturing techniques of different regionsâ. Its âMade in ...â projects will feature local products with labels detailing the origin of each product.2
Most of the smallish, newish, innovative brands have also seen that authenticity is linked to charm. The language they use is informal and chatty. Hereâs just a sample from the drinks company Innocent:
⢠âTM = Thanks Mate. (R) = rainbow (C) = cool.â
⢠âYou should try opening this carton at the other end. Not that weâre telling you how to run your life or anything but it seems to work much easier.â
⢠âCall us on the banana phone on 020 ...â
⢠âShake before pouring. It helps if the capâs on.â
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Innocent packaging: a cracking good read.
So what does this move towards authenticity, simplicity and charm mean? That the righteous and just are taking over the world and nobody is going to exaggerate anymore? That the longstanding tradition of the FMCG world, based around dissimulation and half-truths, is over? That globalization is finished and that everything will become local and artisanal? Hardly. Letâs not get too excited. Itâs doubtful whether these new, authentic products have more than a tiny proportion of the marketplace so far. They appeal to a quite small, sophisticated audience over a relatively narrow range of products. But itâs a market thatâs growing fast â and itâs highly influential.
What we are beginning to see is a change in the spirit of our times, and itâs gradually making an impact on our lives. Itâs a very complex and long-term trend that will affect different sectors of the market with different levels of emphasis at different times. Of course, as consumers, we are, as usual, trying to have it every way. We want it cheap and good value, especially in a time of profound economic unease and austerity: thatâs why the discounters such as Aldi and Lidl are so successful, and thatâs why Walmart is still the worldâs biggest supermarket group. We also want it now, immediately: so if itâs flowers from Kenya and we live in London, weâll have to overlook that. But somewhere or other, right inside us, we also want it to be pure, honest and sustainable. And, if itâs food particularly, we want to know what weâre eating: we donât want it mucked up with additives. Thatâs why Whole Foods Market of the United States is so successful.
But when this fundamental shift was first taking place, most of the big companies didnât even seem to notice. P&G, Coca-Cola, Pepsi and the others, with all their research and their focus groups and their scenario planning and the rest of their elaborate, complex, sophisticated forecasting techniques, were apparently oblivious to what was happening under their noses. Or, if they did notice or they were told, they did nothing about it. It took them years to take note that there was a major mood change and now, belatedly and clumsily, they are trying to catch up.
Big companies are often very bad at predicting change. They tend to insulate themselves from its realities. They are comfortable following, not leading. They grow by acquisition rather than by innovation. As the new, small, clever companies grow and become successful, they get bought by the clumsy giants. Coca-Cola now owns Innocent, and Pepsi owns Naked.
McDonaldâs is also lumbering into the authenticity marketplace. Itâs not as though it couldnât have guessed that something was coming. For years there have been articles, blogs and books attacking the company and its suppliers; there have even been court cases. And McDonaldâs seemed oblivious, almost blind, to what was going on. Or it went into denial and fought it, despite the plethora of warning signs. Then, slowly, McDonaldâs began to change. Its menus started to trumpet the virtues of simple, natural food. It began, belatedly, to adapt to what it believed were changing tastes and it bought into brands that it thought understood these changing tastes. It even began to turn some of its fascias green.
In 2001, McDonaldâs bought a chunk of Pret A Manger, the UK-based High Street cafĂŠ/takeaway group. Pret had built its entire reputation on fresh, authentic food. Needless to say, there were no McD golden arches to be seen on or near Pret establishments. Even so, it became clear that Pret and McDonaldâs didnât mix. Customers were uncomfortable that McDonaldâs was somehow involved. Apparently, Pret management didnât much like it either, so the brand was bought back and sold to someone else. Since then, McDonaldâs has been a bit more careful where it puts its giant feet.
This is just one example. You can find them everywhere. Both Coca-Cola and Pepsi are focusing on new âhealthy livingâ products. In 2008, Coca-Cola bought 40% of a company called Honest Tea; in 2011, it bought the rest. Coca-Colaâs GlacĂŠau Vitaminwater is imitating Innocent with wacky copy (âa bunch of nice guys making a cool productâ), using phrases clearly adapted from the brands, such as Innocent, that it has bought.
And so are the others. It seems that the Good Life, authenticity, informality and charm are now on the corporate agenda. Pepsi has claimed that this is an outline of its strategy for 2015:3
⢠Eliminate the direct sale of full-sugar soft drinks to primary and secondary schools around the globe by 2012.
⢠Provide access to safe water to three million people in developing countries by the end of 2012.
⢠Increase the whole grains, fruits and vegetables, nuts, seeds and low-fat dairy in its product portfolio.
In other words, Pepsi wants to look more pure, authentic and charming, even a bit organic, and inevitably itâs trying hard to act like a socially responsive and responsible corporation.
⢠⢠â˘
âOrganicâ is an interesting word. Somewhere, somehow or other, it has an emotional association with authenticity. Organic products have been around for a long time, certainly since the 1970s, when they were part of the territory occupied by âsimple lifersâ. Organics only gradually became mainstream, and their growth had nothing to do with big companies: neither manufacturers nor retailers were initially interested. It was the âbeard and sandalsâ brigade who gradually pushed organics into the mainstream, and organics in turn influenced the mood towards authenticity.
There are lots of definitions of âorganicâ on websites. None of them is really clear and specific. All we really know is that organic foods are supposed to be purer, more authentic you might say, and they cost more â and, sometimes, but not always, they are a bit more tasty. Certainly they make us feel better because we think we are doing the right thing by the planet. The definitions around organic products are vague, simply because the reality is vague too.
The Organic Trade Association says this on its website: â[Organic production is a] production system that is managed in accordance with the Act and regulations ... to respond to site-specific conditions by integrating cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversityâŚ.
ââŚThe principal guidelines for organic production are to use materials and practices that enhance the ecological balance of natural systems and that integrate the parts of the farming system into an ecological whole. Organic agriculture practices cannot ensure that products are completely free of residues; however, methods are used to minimize pollution from air, soil and water.â I hope youâve got all that and that youâre still following.
Hereâs another definition from the UK Governmentâs Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, in answer to the question âWhat is organic food?â: âIn one sense all food is...