Abstract
Traditional food products (TFPs) represent an important element of culture, identity, and heritage and are characterized by both historical and geographical dimensions. The increasing attention shown in the past 25 years by academics, politicians, and food system actors, and their recognition through Geographical Indications, stems from their implications on economic, juridical, political and social grounds.
This introductory chapter addresses definitions and nuances of TFPs with reference to the three main rationales behind legal recognition and protection of origin products. By drawing on available literature, and addressing the interests of actors across the food system, we emphasize a set of critical issues in relation to the supply of credible information to consumers, the remuneration of farmers and processors, and the provision of public goods and rural development.
Introduction
Traditional food products (TFPs) constitute food products elaborated according to tradition, a ālong established custom that has been passed from generation to generationā (Tradition here defined as in the Oxford dictionary, https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/tradition (accessed on 31/10/2016)). The European Parliament and the Council of the European Union (2012) defines TFPs as products with āproven usage on the domestic market for a period that allows transmission between generations; this period is to be at least 30 years.ā As such, they represent an important element of culture, identity, and heritage (Committee of the Regions, 1996). The quality and identity of such products reflect the link between the specificities of a place (i.e., the origin) and the people living there, and they represent the result of a long-standing effort of enterprises localized in the specific area that manage and communicate the quality of their products, defending and increasing their reputation. From these general definitions it descends that TFPs are characterized by both historical and geographical dimensions.
Food culture is extremely heterogeneous, since noticeable differences exist not only at a global level but also from national, regional and local points of view in food preferences, habits, food-related behavior, and attitudes (Askegaard and Madsen, 1998). Moreover, the range of foods continually evolves over time and traditional foods are being re-invented and re-adapted according to new needs and requirements. A variety of termsālocal, original, typical, specialty, etc.āare used to convey the concept inherent to traditional food (Verbeke et al., 2016). The challenge to providing a clearcut definition is thus linked to the complex set of meanings associated to a concept that is inevitably relative, and shaped according to different points of observation and interests.
TFPs may or may not possess some form of origin labeling, although they are often sold under different collective trademarks, i.e., quality labels. Geographical Indications (GIs) is used as a generic term for names or signs used on food products that correspond to a specific geographical location. Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) (Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) for the identification of specialty food products are labeling schemes that grant producer groups the right to label the geographical origin of their products, in order to make them recognizable to consumers. Based on the definition provided by EC Reg. 1151/2012, for a PDO product the link with the territory of origin is related both to the provenance of the raw materials and to the area where the processing stage takes place, according to a particular processing technique that has been developed locally, by means of tradition over time. For a PGI product, the link to the territory relates to the area where the processing stage takes place, allowing for the raw material to be provided from outside the officially identified processing area.) are specific forms of GIs, among the instruments of the European food quality policy, that not only convey the geographical origin of the product but make a direct link between geographical origin and the quality of the product. The main justification behind GI protection is that for some products there is a strong relationship between either the nature of the product, its reputation, and/or identity, and its place of production and that this relationship is important to consumers (or at least to some of them). Naming a product after the place of origin conveys information on its very nature andāas it happens for PDOs and PGIsāa legal framework for protecting product and place names and for assigning rights to their use can be established. The geographical boundaries allowed for producing these products are defined and traditional production rules are set (e.g., varieties/races and transformation rules, calendar of operations, etc.) and the role of a compulsory third-party control body is affirmed (Balogh et al., 2016; Carbone et al., 2014).
The increasing attention shown in the past 25 years by academics, politicians, and food system actors stems from the relevance of traditional foods and GIsāboth in terms of opportunities and controversiesāon the economic, juridical, political and social grounds (QuiƱones-Ruiz et al., 2016; Belletti et al., 2015; Rangnekar, 2010; Herrmann and Marauhn, 2009; Bramley and Kirsten, 2007). GIs have a worldwide resonance, well beyond European borders, as indicated by recent academic contributions on their impacts and effectiveness in developed and developing countries (BiĆ©nabe and Marie-Vivien, 2015; Zhao et al., 2014; Mancini, 2013; Galtier et al., 2013). Their introduction has sparked a debate both at the European and at the international level on the degree to which these policy schemes represent legitimate instruments to protect consumers from the risk of being misled in their purchase decisions and, at the same time, to protect and foster the distinctive reputation of some producers being usurped by unfair competitors. On the opposite side, some strongly held views claim that these are instruments of granting producers higher rents deriving from the possibility of excluding new entrants on the market and therefore an obstacle to fair competition (Josling, 2006).
The three rationales behind legal recognitions of origin products address specific interests across the food system: to consumers, they aim at providing credible information on different attributes (especially credence attributes) of food products; to farmers and processors, they should allow a fair remuneration for efforts in building individual and collective reputation; to collectivities, they preserve and foster cultural heritage related to the production and promotion of specialty products linked to a specific geographical territory, desirably in economically marginal areas.
This introductory chapter addresses definitions and nuances of ātraditional food products,ā by drawing on available literature. In the following sections I outline the main rationales of TFPs protection through GIs, by highlight the different perspectives across the food system. In the first section, the way TFPs are perceived and valued by consumers is addressed. The second section focuses on the opportunities for farmers and food processors, in terms of competitiveness and innovation. The third section addresses TFPs in relation to collectivities, local territories, and policies.