OLD-FASHIONED
The cocktail known colloquially as the old-fashioned was actually a novel ideaâadding bitters and sugar to whiskey. To many, this meant destroying the purity of the spirit. This cocktail broke with tradition at the time of its conception in the early nineteenth century, and it didnât earn the name old-fashioned until decades later. In 1806, in an issue of âThe Balance and Columbian Repository,â Harry Croswell answered a readerâs query from the previous week regarding the nature of a cocktail, which Croswell described as âa stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters.â With the advent of imported liqueurs and more complex cocktails taking shape thanks to new modifiers, some bar patrons began to request their drinks âthe old-fashioned way.â This plea for simplicityâspirit, sugar, bittersâdeveloped into its own recipe and became what we know today as the old-fashioned.
The great debate seems to be whether to muddle fresh fruit or not, along with the choice of bourbon or rye whiskey. Personally, I prefer rye because it tends to be less sweet and adds a nice spice to the cocktail, but this is a matter of personal preference. There are, ironically, an astounding number of variations on this simplest of cocktails.
Old-Fashioned
2 oz. bourbon or rye whiskey
1 sugar cube (or 1 bar spoon simple syrup)
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Orange peel (garnish)
Muddle the sugar cube, bitters, and a bar spoon of water in the bottom of a rocks glass (omit the water if youâre using simple syrup). Add whiskey and 1 large ice cube and stir to chill (about 30 seconds). Garnish with orange peel.
MANHATTAN
The Manhattan is one of the most well known and revered vermouth cocktails. Prior to the Manhattan, which began circulating in the United States in the late nineteenth century, vermouth was not used as a modifier in cocktails. The drinkâs origin is thought to be the Manhattan Club in New York, although the actual creator of the recipe is unclear. According to popular liquor lore, the cocktail was first served at a party thrown at the Manhattan Club by Winston Churchillâs mother, Lady Randolph Churchill. However, Lady Churchill was actually in England preparing for Winstonâs birth at the time she was supposedly party planning in the Big Apple.
In any case, the Manhattan cocktail shines with its simplicity: bourbon or rye, vermouth, and bitters. It began life as a rye whiskey cocktail, but bourbon has become a respectable if not more popular substitute. Traditionally, the cocktail is stirred rather than shaken to maintain its silky smooth quality.
Manhattan
2 oz. rye or bourbon whiskey
1 oz. sweet vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Bordeaux Maraschino cherry (garnish)
Add ingredients to a mixing glass with ice and stir for 30 seconds to chill and dilute the cocktail. Using a julep strainer, strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a cherry.
WHISKEY SOUR
We have the British navy to thank for popularizing, and possibly inventing, the whiskey sour. Because beer tended to spoil during long sea voyages, rum, which was widely available in the Caribbean, was sailorsâ chosen libation. Citrus fruits such as limes and lemons, which were brought aboard to prevent scurvy, were added to the rum to create what became known as grog (hence the warning: âOne too many, and youâll be groggy in the morningâ).
The first recorded recipe for a sour appeared in Jerry Thomasâs 1862 book The Bartenderâs Guide, which included recipes for gin, brandy, and rum sours. The whiskey sour appeared eight years later in the January 4, 1870, edition of a Wisconsin newspaper called the Waukesha Plain Dealer: ââThen may God have mercy on your soul,â says I, taking a drink out of me cousinâs glass. âAmen,â says the Methodist, as he ordered another Whiskey Sour.â
The popularity of the sour exploded from the 1860s to the 1960s, especially as American whiskey moved in and took top billing. The simple list of ingredientsâwhiskey, citrus, sugar, and waterâis deceiving, and the whiskey sour is often regarded as a test of both professional and home bartendersâ mastery of sweet-to-sour balance. Adding an egg white to a whiskey sour morphs it into a Boston sour, which I prefer for its velvety texture.
Whiskey Sour
2 oz. bourbon
ž oz. fresh lemon juice
½ oz. simple syrup (ž oz. for a less tart cocktail)
1 egg white
Bordeaux Maraschino cherries (garnish)
Add egg white to a mixing glass and dry-shake (no ice) for 20 seconds to emulsify. Add ice and remaining ingredients and shake well. Strain into a rocks glass with ice and garnish with cherries on a cocktail spear.
SUNDAYâS BEST
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