Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

Maria Hayward

• Publisher: Taylor & Francis
• Year: 2017
• eBook ISBN: 9781351569163
• Edition: 1
• Topic: History
• Subtopic: World History
• Index: History

Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book encompasses the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and covers the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle. Henry VIII's wardrobe is set in context by a study of Henry VII's clothes, court and household. ~ ~ As none of Henry VIII's clothes survive, evidence is drawn primarily from the great wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and is interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and a small selection of contemporary garments, mainly from European collections. ~ ~ Key areas for consideration include the king's personal wardrobe, how Henry VIII's queens used their clothes to define their status, the textiles provided for the pattern of royal coronations, marriages and funerals and the role of the great wardrobe, wardrobe of the robes and laundry. In addition there is information on the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, dr given as gifts, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress within the royal household, and the network of craftsmen working for the court. The text is accompanied by full transcripts of James Worsley's wardrobe books of 1516 and 1521 which provide a brief glimpse of the king's clothes.

Document Index

References prefixed Acome from BL Harley MS 2284 and references prefixed Bcome from BL Harley MS 4217. Most references refer to the entry numbers; a few relate to folio numbers. The entries from both documents have been grouped under the following headings as follows: cloth to be made up, makers, objects, places, recipients of cloth and clothing and suppliers.

CLOTH DELIVERED TO THE KING’S ARTIFICERS

This section mainly relates to the new items of clothing, accessories and a few items of furniture ordered for the king to be made up by his tailor, hosier, furrier and listed in BL Harley MS 2284. The entries should be cross referenced with the section on the individuals who made them.

ALMAIN DOUBLETS

tilsent A1242

ARMING DOUBLETS

satin A1221

BACKS OF CUSHIONS

cloth of gold Venice A599

BASES AND TRAPPERS

cloth of gold A400, 417, 427; cloth of gold damask A425, 494, 496; cloth of gold upon satin A493, 495; cloth of gold Venice A492; cloth of silver A491; cloth of silver damask A375, 401; satin A1200–09

BASES, TRAPPERS, SADDLES and HARNESS

cloth of silver damask A376, 505; tilsent A725; velvet A925–27

BONNETS

velvet A 921–23, 938, 953, 965

BORDERS

cloth of silver drawn through A499; cloth of silver drawn through lozengewise A486, 488 velvet A486, 488

CHAMMERS

cloth of gold damask A470; cloth of gold tissue A442; cloth of silver baudekin A443; satin A1287, 1291; tilsent A739; tissue A470

CHAMMERS and COATS

velvet A1048

CLOAKS and COATS FOR MASTER CAREW

damask A380

CLOSE CAPS

satin A1293

CLOTH OF GOLD, PLAIN

bases and trappers A 492–96; chammers A470; covering riding coats and doublets A697; doublets A386, 479, 729; doublets and jackets A408, 413, 415, 436; edging chammers A461; edging cloaks A440; embroidering bases and trappers A506; jackets and doublets A502; lining long gowns A407; repairing embroidery A501; riding coats A481; stocks for hose A387–88, 410, 414, 416, 421–22, 468, 483, 503; welting coats A423, 482; welting jackets A623; welting jackets and doublets A629

CLOTH OF SILVER, PLAIN

bases and trappers A491, 505; borders on coats A499; chammers A443; doublets A709, 715; doublets and jackets A418, 682; lining borders of frocks A486, 488; lining double cloaks A700; lining gowns A480, 867; performing jackets and doublets A672; riding coats, jackets and doublets A633; stocks for hose A420, 636–37, 639, 641, 688, 714, 895; welting coats A698; welting frocks A707; welting jackets and doublets A686; welting stocks A702

COATS

cloth of gold tissue and velvet A382; tilsent A721, 888, 1237; velvet A935, 1090; velvet paned with tilsent A902

COATS and HOODS

velvet A957

COATS FOR THE GUARD

A916, 1077

COATS WITH DI-SLEEVES AND DOUBLETS

velvet A1084

COLLARS AND MUZZLES

A1185

COLLARS, CUFFS AND VENTS

satin A1192

CUSHIONS

A598, 600–02

CUTWORK

coats A482; doublets A479

DAMASK GOLD

‘almain’ doublets A1242

DI-COATS

velvet A1068

DOUBLE CLOAKS

cloth of gold damask A699; tilsent A887; tilsent damask gold A886

DOUBLETS

cloth of gold A479, 718; cloth of gold damask A467; cloth of silver damask A383, 389, 716; cloth of silver damask and gold damask A715; satin A1190, 1195–98, 1244, 1247, 1257–58, 1292, 1295–96, 1323, 1325–27, 1329, 1337, 1472–74, 1475–80, 1494; tilsent A763, 768, 771, 775–76; tilsent damask gold A729, 890; velvet A903, 975, 1024, 1036–37, 1054, 1083; velvet and tilsent A1056

DOUBLETS, BREASTS OF

satin A1245

DOUBLETS FOR CAREY

cloth of silver A476; satin A1251

DOUBLETS ...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Half Title
• Dedication
• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Table of Contents
• Acknowledgements
• Abbreviations of Principal Works Cited
• Introduction
• I Henry VIII: The Man and his Image
• II Henry VIII: European Prince and King of England
• III Creating Magnificence: The Role of the Great Wardrobe
• IV The Cycle of Royal Life: Coronations to Funerals
• V Henry VII: Establishing the House of Tudor
• VI Henry VIII’s Wardrobe Unlock’d
• VII Henry VIII’s Ceremonial Wardrobe: Observing the Ritual Year
• VIII Caring for the King’s Clothes: The Wardrobe of the Robes and the Laundry
• IX Female Fashions at Henry VIII’s Court
• X An Expression of Individuality: An Analysis of the Wardrobes of Henry VIII’s Wives and Sisters
• XI The King’s Children: Dressed to Impress
• XII The Henrician Court
• XIII The Royal Household: Form, Function and Livery
• XIV Livery for the Households of Henry VII and his Family
• XV Henry VIII’s Household: The Domus Magnificencie and the Domus Providencie
• XVI Outside the Household: The Stable, the Hunts and Beyond
• XVII Tudor Military Splendour
• XVIII The Households of Henry VIII’s Wives, Sisters and Children
• XIX The Royal Artificers
• XX Making the Tudor Wardrobe
• XXI Transcription Notes
• The Wardrobe Book of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley in December 1516, edited from British Library MS Harley 2284
• The Inventory of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley on 17 January 1521, edited from British Library MS Harley 4217
• Glossary
• Index 1 Document Index
• Index 2 Index to the Text
• Colour Plates following