Urban Appetites
eBook - ePub

Urban Appetites

Food and Culture in Nineteenth-Century New York

  1. English
  2. ePUB (mobile friendly)
  3. Available on iOS & Android
eBook - ePub

Urban Appetites

Food and Culture in Nineteenth-Century New York

About this book

Glossy magazines write about them, celebrities give their names to them, and you'd better believe there's an app (or ten) committed to finding you the right one. They are New York City restaurants and food shops. And their journey to international notoriety is a captivating one. The now-booming food capital was once a small seaport city, home to a mere six municipal food markets that were stocked by farmers, fishermen, and hunters who lived in the area. By 1890, however, the city's population had grown to more than one million, and residents could dine in thousands of restaurants with a greater abundance and variety of options than any other place in the United States.

Historians, sociologists, and foodies alike will devour the story of the origins of New York City's food industry in Urban Appetites. Cindy R. Lobel focuses on the rise of New York as both a metropolis and a food capital, opening a new window onto the intersection of the cultural, social, political, and economic transformations of the nineteenth century. She offers wonderfully detailed accounts of public markets and private food shops; basement restaurants and immigrant diners serving favorites from the old country; cake and coffee shops; and high-end, French-inspired eating houses made for being seen in society as much as for dining.  But as the food and the population became increasingly cosmopolitan, corruption, contamination, and undeniably inequitable conditions escalated. Urban Appetites serves up a complete picture of the evolution of the city, its politics, and its foodways.

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INDEX
Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.
A. Barmore & Co., 46
abundance of food, 16, 30–31, 36, 73–74, 217n64; and agricultural societies, 220n25; and Erie Canal, 41; and transportation, 41, 50–51, 222n52
access to foodstuffs, 2, 21, 36, 73–76, 204, 206; and Dustan, 62; and Pintard, 34; and transportation, 40
adulteration: and distillery milk, 84–88, 85, 86, 95–102; of food, 9, 74, 204; of liquor, 76, 78
advertisements, 7; for butchers, 65–66; for confectioners, 32; for cookstoves, 154; for dairies, 99; for farms, 13–15, 213n15; for fertilizers, 45; for grocers’ shops, 31, 77–78; for pleasure gardens, 238n65; for railroads, 42; for restaurants, 109, 113, 235n25, 238n63, 238n70; for silverware, 163
advisers, household, 7, 142–43, 145–49, 152–53, 158; advice books, 157–58, 162; etiquette advisers, 166; and servants, 164–65
African Americans: and dance contests, 34; free and enslaved, 33, 132; impromptu Sunday markets of, 33–34; lunch counter sit-ins, 205; and restaurants, 109, 113, 124, 132, 205
agribusiness, 9, 205, 207; factory farms, 203, 206
agricultural societies, 44, 220n25
agriculture, 13–14, 207; agricultural tools/machinery, 44; and “empire of gastronomy,” 169; and fertilizers, 14, 44–45, 48, 221n30; and land values, 45–46, 221n30; science/technology of, 13, 44–46. See also farms/farming
ale, English, 116
allspice, 31, 80
almonds, 31, 77; almond biscuits, 32
American Agriculturist Magazine, 48
American Biscuit Company, 177
American Home Cook Book, 154
American Republican Party, 58
American Revolution, 2, 29, 36
amusement parks, 8, 170
anchovies, 31
apartment living, 154–55
apples, 14–15; apple cake...

Table of contents

  1. Cover
  2. Copyright
  3. Title Page
  4. Series Page
  5. Contents
  6. Acknowledgments
  7. Introduction
  8. One. “Convenient to the New York Market”: Feeding New York City in the Early National Period, 1786–1830
  9. Two. “The Glory of a Plenteous Land”: The Transformation of New York’s Food Supply, 1825–1865
  10. Three. “Monuments of Municipal Malfeasance”: The Flip Side of Dietary Abundance, 1825–1865
  11. Four. “To See and Be Seen”: Restaurants and Public Culture, 1825–1865
  12. Five. “No Place More Attractive than Home”: Domesticity and Consumerism, 1830–1880
  13. Six. “The Empire of Gastronomy”: New York and the World, 1850–1890
  14. Conclusion. From the Broadway Shambles to New Amsterdam Market
  15. Notes
  16. Index
  17. Series List (continued)